Pearls are a true treasure of the ocean. Not only did people throughout millennia appreciate and treasure pearls for their exceptional beauty, but pearls captured imaginations and instilled a yearning desire for ownership.
What makes pearls so significant compared to other gems is that they don’t need to be cut and polished like others to bring out their beauty – they come out of the oyster in its full glory.
In this third part of the series we’re looking at the influence pearls have had on culture throughout the ages.
During the Middle Ages, pearls were used as talismans since people believed that they would provide protection during battle. Kings and other nobles took their valuables onto the battlefield in the hopes that the mysterious powers of pearls would protect them, causing many pearls to be lost or destroyed. The Roman Catholic church accumulated a tremendous amount of pearls during the 7th to 11th centuries. These gems and other treasures were offered up by churchgoers, often as penance for their sins. With so many built-up treasures, the church started to find creative ways to use these gems. One example is a religious manuscript, the Ashburnham manuscript of the Four Gospels (once owned by JP Morgan) which was decorated with jewels. The cover was made up of gold, colored stones, and about 98 pearls, and took about four years to complete.
Back in Europe, pearls were perceived as the ultimate display of wealth. The difficulty in gathering pearls from nature is the main reason why pearls were so exclusive, and so expensive that only the super-rich could afford it. Because of their popularity, the Duke of Saxony, England, passed a law in 1612 allowing only the royals to wear pearls. Doctors, rich merchants, and their wives were suddenly excluded, and the desire for these gems instantly increased.
Queen Elizabeth I of England (1558-1603) always wore a great deal of pearls. She never went out in public without elaborate costumes, heavy makeup and jewelry, which you can also see in portraits painted of her throughout her lifetime.
Another interesting story from this time is the one of La Peregrina, the famous pearl the size of a quail egg. This pearl was found by a slave diver in the Gulf of Panama (or possibly Venezuela) in 1579. The pearl made its way into the Spanish Crown Jewels during the reign of King Ferdinand V. It was later presented to Queen Mary I of England (Bloody Mary). After Napoleon Bonaparte invaded Spain, he made his brother, Joseph, the king of Spain. Five years later he was defeated by the Duke of Wellington, and was forced to flee Spain. He took some of the Spanish crown jewels with him, including La Peregrina, which he later sold to James Hamilton, the Duke of Abercorn. In 1969, Richard Burton bought La Peregrina on auction for his wife, Elizabeth Tailor, who wore the pearl in its original setting in the 1969 film, Anne of the Thousand Days.
Lastly, we come to the 20th century. Some famous pearl lovers included Elizabeth Taylor, Jackie Kennedy, Audrey Hepburn, Princess Diana, and more recently, Catherine, Duchess of Cambridge.
Jackie Kennedy’s famous strand of pearls was apparently not pearls, but made of glass. In the cult movie, Breakfast at Tiffany's, Audrey Hepburn wore the iconic 5-strand pearl necklace, inspiring women around the globe to copy her elegant style.
In 1917, the jeweler Pierre Cartier bought his first shop on New York’s Fifth Avenue with $100 in cash and a two-strand natural pearl necklace, which was valued at $1 million at the time. The same necklace was auctioned in 1957 for only $157,000.
You don’t need to visit a shop on Fifth Avenue if you’re looking for the perfect pearl jewelry design. You can sit on your couch and browse our online shop instead – you’re bound to find something that you love at an affordable price.